There’s a certain Slant of light,
Winter Afternoons –
That oppresses, like the Heft
Of Cathedral Tunes –
I am not good at winter afternoons, especially after the clocks have changed.
When the nights start closing in early I need quick fixes that don’t demand a lot of energy or thought.
Enter my soup formula.
A bowl of home-made soup when I am in for lunch at this time of year has become almost essential. It’s a hug in a bowl, a practically instant comfort food with no guilt attached.
It’s much cheaper than the posh cartons you can get in the shops and much more delicious than the canned stuff.
It’s also incredibly simple – so much so that I’ve reduced it to a formula.
1 onion, sweated in a little oil + I kg vegetables + I litre liquid + seasoning
x 30-40 minutes on the boil
I think it’s quite hard to get this wrong. I have made lots of concoctions from odd combinations of veg that just happened to be a bit past their best and rarely had one I didn’t like.
You can tart up this basic formula all sorts of ways, depending on what you have in the house and how creative you feel. A stick of celery, chopped and added at the onion stage always improves the flavour.
The liquid can simply be water. If I have it in the freezer, I use chicken stock; most often I use Marigold vegetable bouillon, dissolved in boiling water.
I prefer smooth, thick soups so I always liquidise the mixture. I use a stick blender for minimal washing up.
These are a few of my favourite mixtures, the ones I go to again and again to bolster me against a grey winter afternoon.
The easiest soup in the whole wide world is a bag of frozen peas boiled in an equal volume of water for about 15 minutes and then liquidised. You can even skip the onion stage of the formula as the peas work fine without it. With judicious amounts of salt and pepper, this actually gives you several bowls of proper, comforting soup.
You can make it a bit more interesting by adding a handful of chopped mint, a swirl of olive oil or – a tip I read in a Nigella Lawson book – by boiling it with a Parmesan rind for a subtle saline kick that gives an added depth of flavour.
Butternut squash and/or sweet potato
Some chopped ginger sweated with the onion gives this added layers of warmingness.
A big handful of chopped coriander leaves stirred in near the end is also delicious.
Some home made soup, especially the ‘what I had left in the fridge’ variety, can be a rather uninspiring shade of khaki. This one is the opposite – it’s the shockingly bright orange of autumn beech leaves that more or less dares you to go on feeling miserable when you are looking at it.
Today’s formula for lunch: 1 onion + a few chilli flakes + 1kg chopped butternut squash + 1 litre veg stock = comfort in a bowl
This is sweet and earthy. I think it works best if you include a medium-sized potato in the total weight of veg.
A fat pinch of dried sage goes well. You can also use orange juice for part of the liquid, although in that case I’d omit the sage and use fresh, chopped coriander instead.
For an even more nutritious soup you can add a handful of lentils to this: it’s what I always gave our children when they were run down and sniffly towards the end of a long school term. You’ll need to increase the amount of liquid as the lentils absorb a lot.
Celeriac and thyme
I wouldn’t do this on a completely miserable day because the celeriac can be a bit awkward to peel and you have to remember not to let the flesh stay exposed to air for too long or it goes brown. But it really is worth the (slight) extra effort. The secret is to add absolutely masses of fresh thyme leaves near the end of cooking. I haven’t tried it with dried but I think that could work as well. As with the carrot, I think a potato is needed to give the finished product a really velvety texture.
An old favourite that my mum used to make when anything spicy was considered quite daring in England. I use a tablespoon of curry powder, stirred into the softened onion, and about equal quantities of parsnip and potato. No longer daring, just comforting.
I’m always looking for new combinations – leave me some suggestions in the comments if you like!